Wednesday, May 9, 2012

Hungry in Bangalore: Eat Street aka VVPuram – Bangalore's answer to Khau Galli




Took me 4 and half years to get here. Its like being in Agra and missing out the second best thing after the Taj Mahal in the food department. As you can see my metaphors have gotten worse after my hiatus.

Bangalore's answer to Mumbai's Khau gallis, both in crowd, taste and quantity Eat Street or Chat Street or Food Street or the original name VV Puram is a must visit. When asked by any guests what is the trademark, or distinctive street food of Bangalore – I would usually say Masala Puri or Gobi Manchuri (this isnt a chinese dish let me reiterate) or some Bhajjis (fritters for anglophones). I dare not say Dosa and idli cause thats best found in Bombay or the Bay Area and are just too usual fares. But the answer was right in the front of me for all these years here. Just point them to Eat Street.

People here have constantly mentioned this eat street, but in modest tones – never like the blatant chest thumping praises for Chowpatty. Its almost like as if Bangaloreans didnt want outsiders to know about this place. Too bad. We are invading this bastion too. Crowding your eat street and changing the way food is made. This is but natural, food sold is tailored to suit the crowds that eat which has changed from the past.

So after a jarring and eventful 1.5 hour search for this place guided by google maps, we realized its much better to chuck the gps and simply ask people for directions, we hit eat street with a vengence like titanic hitting a crowded well lit, good smelling iceberg which had a lot to offer than what was visible. I am going to stop with the metaphors now.

Immediately we saw a TV crew for a food programmed from TLC channel covering a shop – we were at the right place. We watched the shooting for a few minutes observing for clues which would help chalk up a strategy. A strategy, a plan is very ncessary when you attack. We were here to finish a mission in one night. So we broke it down; South Indian or Local, North Indian chats, the South Indian chinese, local dessert and then finally a drink probably followed by a kulfi and then weigh ourselves on the ruppee coin weigh machine.

1.South Indian – or local – we started with the variety dosas. This place is legendary for that. And the amount of crowds will tell you which spot to hit. The varieties are several, we had the chutney roast and th masala bhath dosa. Equally great and filling the chutney roast is a super crisp dosa layered with chutnyes and served with chutneys while the masala bhat is a masala dosa filled with masala rice and peanutes. We wanted to continue trying other varieties but there was so much to be tried. The same shop was selling 'Paddu' – dosa like balls served with a wonderful array of chutneys. Belle holige, nipattu and several other dishes lined the counters and were moving fast. But we had a plan tostick to

2.North Indian chats – apparently recent additions, these shops were also crammed with people looking for a taste of their origin. Wonderfully made North Indian chats like Kachori, dahi papdi and sweets alike had sated many cravings and we could see the crowd swelling by the minute. I loved the dahi papdi and it was distincly north indian taste – which is very much different from the local chat versions. Although the Pav Bhaji was a let down – affirming my belief that Pav Bhaji best be had in Mumbai. We wanted to have some more sweets – but the plan!

3.South Indian Chinese – pronunched 'chayneese'. It means 1 thing most of the time – Gobi Manchuri. Legend has it that some guy made it here and it became popular..yadayadayada. So we had a plate and it was OK. Not nice. Didnt live up to the praises heaped by some of my friends but perhaps he was having a bad day, but looking at the crowd he might be whipping out some mean chayneese usually.



4.Local Dessert – South Indian deserts are plenty, healthy and delightful. And what a delight we discovered – Gulkhand with ice cream and fruits. Dished out in one exclusive shop, swarming with people, the guys dishing it out seemed like they didnt want any more business. I would too given the endless hoarde of people screaming at you to give them this gooey goodness. Gulkhand is basically preserved rose petals, very healthy, and in combination with the butterscotch ice cream and cut up fruits it was amazing. I will be back, definitely.

Note to myself, wear belt a notch loose during such missions. Place for a drink, masala soda at the same shop. Kulfi at the marwadi sweet shop, yes please.

Literally with food upto our throats we trudged back to my bike. Our mission was not entirely successfull, betrayed by our limited appetites. We would be back, definitely to finish what we started.

No comments: